1. An initial decision has to be made as to whether to housebreak or paper train. It is desirable to housebreak whenever possible. However, situations are present when paper training would be advantageous. Under most circumstances, male dogs should not be paper trained. If the dog has previously undergone paper training, then efforts have to be made to prevent the dog from having access to the previous toilet area.

2. Feeding and drinking need to be controlled. A fairly regular schedule has to be maintained. For this reason, food and water should only be given at particular times and in measured amounts. The time between feeding/watering and defecation/ urination has to be determined through carefully kept behavioral records. Note that the latencies for defecation and urination may not coincide. In short, the bottom line is to establish a schedule and stick to it. This will enable the dog to acquire a sense of when you expect him to eliminate. Once this is established, then subsequent modifications can be made (i.e. the schedule can become less rigid).

3. Schedules should be established with certain considerations in mind: (a) Younger dogs need to be fed more often; hence, they will require more walking; (b) Smaller dogs have a tendency to urinate more frequently; (c) Intervals between walks need to be reasonably spaced; (d) The dog should be walked soon after arising in the morning; (e) Snacks, tidbits, and between meal treats need to be curtailed; (f) Changes in the schedule should be introduced in a gradual manner.

4. Diet also has to be controlled to some extent. It is advisable not to change the diet during training. If the diet has to be changed, then it should be done by gradually mixing the new food with the old. The stools of the dog should be firm and not loose.

5. The dog should not be permitted a free run of the house/apartment. During training it is important to keep the dog restricted. It is also desirable to feed the dog in this location. If possible, he should also sleep there. If the bathroom or kitchen is used, then a puppy gate may be needed. Crate-training is an alternative.

6. As soon as the dog begins to show behavioral signs of wanting to eliminate (typical signs include circling, pacing, squatting, tail between legs, sniffing, restless behavior), or upon arising in the morning, the owner should immediately pick the dog up and carry it outdoors. Once outdoors the dog should be allowed only a reasonable period of time in which to eliminate. After approximately ten minutes if the dog does not go, then it should be brought back inside and confined to its den area. It should then once again be watched very closely for signs of wanting to eliminate. Alternatively, if the dog does not go, then a suppository may be given. If the dog does go, then it should be lavishly praised and given a treat and then taken for a walk and/or play session. It is important to make the walks/play sessions contingent upon relatively rapid elimination. The owner should be aware that after the play session the dog may soon have to relieve itself again. Hence, once again, the owner needs to be on the alert for particular behavioral markers indicating the dog's need to void.

7. Just as soon as the dog begins to eliminate, the owner should associate a key conditioning word with the actual act. Logical choices are "urinate" for urination and "defecate" for defecation. These words need to be repeated several times during the process of defecation/urination.

8. After the dog has been walked, it should be taken back into the house and immediately confined to its den area if it has not eliminated (if the last walk was before bedtime, then it should be confined on a lead in the bedroom if this is where it sleeps). If the dog has gone, then when it is brought back into the house, it may be given a "free period" outside the den area. The free periods need to be short at first, but then increased in length as the training progresses. During all free periods the dog should be watched carefully. After the free period is over the dog should then once again be confined to its den area. To repeat, if the dog does not eliminate, no free period after it is brought back into the house. Used in this sense, "free periods" become the reward for rapid elimination when taken outdoors.

9. Punishment after elimination has occurred has little effect on decreasing the probability of this misbehavior. If a dog is caught in the act of eliminating in the house, then the owner should startle the dog by throwing something (e.g. book, shaker can) and/or yelling a very loud "No." The severity of the correction depends on the personality characteristics of the dog. That is, for shy dogs a simple "No" should suffice, whereas for stubborn or aggressive dogs, the correction may have to be harsher. After the correction the owner should immediately pick the dog up and take it to its outside toilet area. The owner should keep the dog in the toilet area until elimination occurs at which time it should be socially praised and given a treat. A walk or play session may then be initiated.

10. At night it is desirable to keep the dog in the same room as the owner. The dog should be restrained on a lead, however. Enough lead should be given simply to let the dog lie down, and no more. Do not let the dog roam. During the course of the night the dog may become restless and start vocalizing. If this occurs, then the dog should be taken outside as soon as possible. The owner should then remain patiently with the dog until elimination occurs. Appropriate conditioning procedures should be followed. If the dog is not kept in the bedroom, then it should be restrained in its den within easy earshot of the owner.

11. An indoor area which has been soiled should be wiped with a 25% solution of vinegar and warm water. The odor of the vinegar can then be neutralized with Lysol. If the dog continuously eliminates in a certain specified area inside the house, then additional measures have to be taken.

12. During the initial stages of training it is important to take the dog to the same outside toilet area. The owner needs to direct the dog to the most desirable location. Ideally, this should be fairly close to the owner's residence. When the dog gets to this area, he should be walked briskly back and forth in a business-like manner. Do not allow the dog too much time to sniff and smell on the way. The object is to get the dog to go as soon as the toilet area is reached.

13. After training has been completed variable length walks should be initiated. Never walk the dog with the intention that he will eventually void. First he should void, then the walk follows.

The above procedues will be review and you will be given specific instructions to meet your individual needs during the class sessions.